Crank hemstitch embroidering-machine.



D. NOBLE'. GRANK HEMSTXTCH BMBROIDERING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED Nov. 11. 1967i-,

1,033,055 Patented Julyv16, 1912. y 12 SHETS*SHEET1. 15316@ 27 Y i, '5f 'x i6 '11 9 01% 22193.. e 764 y?? i 403 401 s 1 9 j L j .fzs l 11s Q9 35 3 a 2.531

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-D. NOBLE. GRANK HBMSTITGH BMBROIDBRING MACHINE.

' Patented July 16, 1912.

12 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

' APPLICATION FILED NOV.1l, 1907.

ATTO/mvg y.

D@ NOBLE.

CRANE HEMSTITCH BMBROIDERING MACHINE. APrLloATIoN FILED Nov. 11, 1901.

r11/IT111535555- v x 'INVENTOK Aff-ORME?- Patented July 16, 1912.

D.I NOBLE.

CRANK HEHSTITGH EMBROIDERING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV.11, 1907.

1,033,055. u PatentedJu1y16,1912.

-12 SHEETS-SHEETS.

if@ 0 I f ,I #02 477- 476 479 48 9V uw) M83 D. NOBLE.

CRANK HEMSTITGH EMBROIDERING MACHINE. APLIGATI'ON FILED NOV.'11, v1907.

Patented July 16, 1912.

12 SHEETS-SHEET 9.

159 1 157Mo v 28 n MT/vfssfse A TTORNEY.

D. NOBLE. GRANK HEMSTITCH MBROIDBRING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOVfll, 1907. I

. y Patented July 16,1912.

12 slums-sub1* 1o.

. /N VE/vgro/e.

ORNE Y.

D. NOBLE.A

GRANK HEMSTITGH BMBROIDERING MACHINE.

APPLIGATION FILED Nov.1v1. 1907.

Patentd July 16, 1912i 12 SHEBTB-SHBBT 11.

WMM. Y NW A ITORNE Y.

' D'. No'I-B-'-if GRANK HEMSTITGH EMBROI-DBRINGMAGHINB. AP'PLIUATION FILEDJIO-V. 11, '1907.

Patented July 16, 19.12.

UNITED srafriis PATENT-oiirio-E.y

:DONALD NOBLE, or BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, AssIGNOR TO V THE SINGER Martu-4 FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.. 1

CRAN# y-Hnivis'iricri `Eivi'1311.0InEaiNef-ivuici-IINn.

`Specification of Letters Patent.' Patented 1912.

Applicatipirled Novemberll, 1907. .Serial No. 401,644.

To au w/zom t may concern:

Be it known that I, DONALD NOBLE, a subject of the King of Great Britain, and a resident of Bridgeport, in the countyY ot Fairfield and State' of Connecticut, have invented cert-ain new and `useful Improvements -in Crank Hemstitcli Embroidering- Machines, of which the following is a speci'- iication.

This invention has for its'object toimprove that class of sewing machines commercially termed crank liemstitch enibroidering ma'chi-nes, wherein the material ised inany desired direction by means of a feeding mechanism operatively connected with aananually controlled crank mounted so as to be conveniently manipulated.

Referring to the accompanyingdrawings,

in the several figures of which like parts are similarly designated, Figure lis a view in front side elevation of an en'ibroidering ina-lchine embodyingniy improved mechanism, the bed-plate and arm lstandard being shownl in section. F ig. 2 is a 'rear side elevation, partially broken away to' better illustrate the means employed'for actuating theFneedle-thread take-up. F-ig. 3 is a rear side elevation similar to Fig. 2, partially in section to better. illustrate the mechanism for controlling theqfeed of the ,materiaL Figa 4 is a plan view of Fig. 1, the spoolliolding bracket `and parts attached thereto being removed. Fig. 'is a front end elevation ot' the overliangiiig arm', the spoolholding bracket and parts attached' thereto being removed asin Fig. ,4. Fig. 6 isa front end elevation of the sewing machine bed-plate and the parts carried thereby, the

latter' being shown partially in section. Fig. 7 is a view 1n perspective of the throatplate, one of the two loopers, and the frame upon which said throat-plate is 'mounted'.l

Fig. S is a detail sectional view, in perspective, illustrating the means employed for connecting the hub of the loop-taker with its driving shaft.4 Fig. 9 is a view in perspective of the mechanism located'in and extending below the feed-controlling cylinder. Figi() is a` vertical central section of the cylinder and parts carried by it. F i-g l1 is a horizontal section substantially` on the' line E-F Ot Figs. 5 andv 10, looking in the direction indicated by the arrow G. Fig. 12 is a horizontal section substantially on the line H-Iv of F igsl and' 10,*looking in the direct-ion indicatedby the arrow J;

Fig. '13 isa. viewiii section on the line A-B, V'

Fig. 1, looking 'in the direction indicated' by the arrow X.; Fig. 14 is a rear end ele-A vation of Fig. 2, the 'crankshaft and Astop motion meclianismbeing shown in section on the line .C-D-Fig. 25. Fig."15` iswain enlarged `detail view ofthe clutch mecha-v nisin for controlling the .time of movement of the rotating cylinder, theinachine frame being shown in dottedlines. Fig. 1G a detail 'view of the mechanism,comprising the hand. crank.

Figs. 17, 18,-'19and 20 .I

are-views of the Oppositely arranged cain..:-A

sections and` grooves of the cani disk located at .the-front side of the overhanging arm.

Figs. 21, A22,23 land' 24' are views illustrating the cani-grooves and sectionsiiori'ned in and- .uponfthe cam disk located at the rear side of the overlianging arm. Fig. 25 isa central vertical section of tlie stop-inotioii mechanism and the arm. standard. F igsQG and 27 are enlarged diagrammatic views of the stitch formationtand opeii-work seam,` respectively. .Iii the former figure the p'oint of intersection ot' the sewing threads desigj nates the point at which the needle enters the niaterialin the formation of the stitches, y

the latter lg'ure representing the finished seam. Fig. 28 is a detail view of the thi-,oat slide plateprovided with the needle-guardaiid-loop-controlleix Fig. 29 is vaw'iewvin perspective of the lower portion of tig. S),-

the step foot being broken out toi bett-ei' illustrate the means employed for guiding'- 11 journaled in suitable bearings" formed `in the bracket 12, which latter is secured to the overhanging arm by suitable screws 13 and 14. The needle-barl level 9 A is made.

ioo

later referred to.

tubular at itsforward end and provided with a yoke connection consisting' ot the two parts 15 and 1G, and into said voke is journaled a rocking connection 17 which is operatively connected, by nuts 10, 19 and Washers 20, Q0, with the upper end of `the needle-bar 1S.

As indicated in Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4L, the stem of the yoke member 15 16 is mounted for oscillation in the socketed forwardly eX- tending arm of the lever ,9, While the'parts 15 and 16 are spaced sufliciently to allouv a slight lateral movement of the block 17 upon its alined 'ulcriun-pius, so as to compensate for the sideWise-xnovement of the needle-bar.

The needle-bar 18 is mounted to-move vertically in suitable bearings formed in the swinging frame 21, which latter is pivotcd at its upper end, by suitable lugs, as Q3 and 24, entering the respective holes Q5, Q5

formed in the bracket 26, to the inner upper end of the rotating cylinder q22 serving as a carrier for the needle-frame Q1 and certain other parts supported thereby Which will be The bracket 26 forms a part of the swinging frame 21, and the lugs 23 and 24.- t'orm a part of the complemental brackets 27 and 28, respectively, secured, by'screws 29, to the cylinder Q2.

To the lower end of the needle-bar 18 is secured a plate 30 of inverted T-shape, the

longer arm 31 of which is secured by a screwl 32 in a slot formed in the lower end or said needle-bar, the screuT 32 also acting' to secure the bracket collar 33 upon said bar. To the arms'34 and 35 of the plate 30 are secured, by pivot screws 3G .and 37, the needle-carrying levers or needle clamps 38 and 39 into Which the needles 10 and 411, respectively, are secured by the usual needle set screw 112.

43 Vis the looper-actuating crank connection, opfratively connected at one end With .the crank al1, its loiver or opposite end being` connected With the. looper-actuating.lever 4:5 secured b y sereiv -16 upon the tulcrum pin #17, Which, in turn is mounte-d to oscillate in bearings i8 t'ormcd in the bracket L10. which latter is secured by screws 50 to the underside o1 the bed-plate. The liorvvard end ot' the lever 45 is provided ivith complcmental arms 51, Which carry complemental si uds provided Vwith complemeutal rollers Uil (one only of which is shown), said studs. and rollers entering a' groove formed in the loop-taker-driving ring 56 is the trame bracket which is secured by screiv.-y 57. 57 tothe lovvcr side of the bedplate and provided with an arm 5S which, in turn, is provided with a pinch bearing 59, comprising'Y an integral part of the arm 58, and with a cap (30, said cap being secured by screvvf fil, (Si to said arm.

(shown only in connection With shaft 7G)V formed in the loop-taker-drivingv shafts 75 and 7 0, said extended portions and' notches` acting to synchronize the movements of said shafts and loop-takers. The loop-takers G3 and G4 are held against vertical movement, relatively to the driving shafts 75 and 76, by screws 31 (one only of which is shown). The lower ends of the drihing shafts 75 land 7 (S are mounted upon aojustably secured bearings 83 and Sel, respectively, which latter are threaded into the gear 85 and secured against accidental movement by the 'nuts 36, S6, the gear 85 beingprovided with an elongated hub 87 Which is secured by a screiv 83 upon the standard 70. The standard is held in vertical adjustment, relatively to the bushing- 62,`by nuts 90, 90. The driving ring 55 is provided with complemental threaded openings 89 (one only of which is`sho\vn) corresponding to the threads formed on the shafts and 76, and as said ring is moved vertically in opposite direct-ions, the loop-takers are caused to oscillate and coactwith the needles to form stitches. y

From the foregoing it will be understood that the rotation ofthe crank 8, through the connections previously pointed out, transmits vertical movements to the needle, and thatl the crank 4-1, through tlre connections pointed out, transmits oscillatory movements to the loop-takers.

100 is a hand crank shaft, the upper end of which is mounted in a bearing 101 tormed in a bracket later to be described, its lower end being mounted in a bearingl 102 formed in a bracket 103 secured, by screws 101, lO-l, to a lu y 105 formingy a part or the bed-plate 1. To 4thc lower end ot' the crank shaft 100 is secured a hand crank consisting of a lever v100 and handle 107, said handle being' provided ivith a bushing, later to be referred to, lors-ely mounted upon the rod 10S secured in the lever 106. Upon the upper end ot' said crank shaft secured Va bevel gear 100 which meshes 'with a like gear 110 secured `upon a horizontal shaft 111', said shatt beoverhanging arm. To the upper end of the. shaft 116 is secured a gear 119 Vwhich meshes' with a like gear 120 secured upon the rotat-- ing' cylinder 22.

Near the lower end of the hand crank ha tt, 100 is secured a bevel gear. 121. which meshes with a like bevel gear 122 mounted on a. second horizontal shaft 123, which latter is mounted at one end in a bearing formed in a lugl05, its opposite end being mounted in a bearing 124 formed in the rib portion of the support 125 extending down from t-he bed-plate. To the forward end of the shaft 123 is secured a gear 126 which coacts with a like gear 127 carried by the upright shaft 128, vthe upper end of' said shaft being mounted' inbearings formed in` a bracket 129 secured by screws 130 to the underside ofthe bedplate, the lower end of said shaftbeingmounted in the 4bearing 132 formedlvin the end of the arm 58 of the frame bracket 56, a

lcollar 133, inl connection with the gear 127,

70, thus completing the train of mechanism,

between the crank handle ,107 and the loop takers 63 and64, and said erank handle and -the cylinder 2 2, for rotating said loop-takers and cylinder, 4and parts carried by said cylinder, synchronously and about a common axls. 'u

That the'needle-threads may'follow the l rotation of the needles, loopftakers, feeding mechanism land bobbin threads, I mount upon the overhanging arm a. bracket 150 secured by screws 151, 151. The upper end of the bracket 150 comprises a circular portion 152 intofgwhich is journaled' the hub 153 of the gear 154, which hub extends slightly above the upper, surface of said circular portion. To the upper side of the hub 153'is secured,.by screws as 155 (shown in. dotted lines only), a disk 156 carrying the complemental spooler pins 157, thread eyes 158, thread.l tensio-ns 159,` threadcontrolling springslGO and the central thread guide 161.

162 is an upright shaft carrying near its opposite yends the gears 163 and'164, said shaft being journaled` at its upper end iu the bracket 150 and at its lower end in the overhanging arm, the ear 163 meshing with the gear'154, and the gear 164 meshing with '-the gear 120, thus transmitting to the ,gear 154 andvparts carried by it rotary movements correspending` to the movements of the cylinder 22.

The usual needle threadsare passed from the supply through .the thread eyes 158,

thread tensions 159', -thread controller springs. 160/ and thread guidejll, then through the-eye 178 in `the'take-up lever 179 ml through .an eve..180 formed in, the

of the clotli-plate ybracket 181, which latter is secured screw 182 to the bracket 150, followed by passing said threads down throughv the hollow' needle-bar 18 and out through*the thread opening 175 to the thread eyes of the respective needles40 and 41. The loop-takers are prov. f.

vided with the usual bobbins and thread,

which lat-ter'concatenates with the needle thread to forni stitchesin the usual manner.

The take-up lever 17 9 is secured to tihe'upper end of a vertically arranged lrock-shaft 188 which is journaled in a'suitable bearing formed in the bracket 12, a lever 189 ybein-g secured, by- -pinch screw 190, to the lower end of said 'rock-shaft.' ,The lever 189 car` ries at vits free end a roller 191 which tracks wit-hin a cam groove 192 formed in the outer edge of a cam later to be described.

200 is the throat-plate frame base provided at its underside with a.' boss 2,01 and pin' 202 -(shoWn in dotted lines, Fig. 6)

207 which support the throat-nate 208. 'lo the upper surface of the throat-plate is secured, by screws 209 and 210', two undercut guide plates 211 and 212, respectivelybe' tween whiclris mounted the throat slide plate 213 having a needle opening 214. From the underside of the plate 213 there is extended -downwardly a needle-guardandloop-controller 215 which, at its'llowerend, 1s" provided with oppositely arranged grooves 216 (one only of which is shown) in `which 'the' oppositely arranged needles travel in jth'eir vertical movements to form stitches', said needle-guard-and-loop-ccntroller being provided with an opening 216 for about half its length from the needle opening down to allow the piercer, later to be dey scribed, to descend into the material.

217 isa bracketsecured by screw 218 to the throat-plate frame'base 200, said bracket Y being provided with an opening 219 through which freely*I passes a rod 220 carrying a spring 221 confined between the bracket 217 and' a plate 222. @The plate 222 is secured to the end of the rod 220 and providedwith a pin 223 which passes through the post 207 and abutsagainst the rear side of the needleguard-and-loop-controller 215, thus effecting a construction-of throat-plate wherein the throat slide plate 213 is capable of movements in opposite directions in line 'with the feed of the material. EThe throat slidey plate is held in itsnormal position by the circular portion 224 ycontacting with the inner wall 226, which latter is secured to the. bed-plate 1 by screws 227.v

" isthef slide plate. i

f* The work stitches ofthe production ot the device ot the application consist ot tivo superposed lock stitchesl upon 'the inner end ot' the crank sha tt il, said gear meshing' vvith a hevel gear secured vh v screws to the inner tace ot a cain disk 234e', which latter has formed integral rwith it-a hollow cani shat't 255 mounted to turn on a rod Q56 secured by screivs 257 in a. hearing* 25S :termed at the rear side of the overhaneing'. arin. vthe gears 250 and 253 are ot the ratio ot three-to-one, thus etiecting` three complete actuations ot the stitchtoriuing mechanism to one rotation of the gear 7323.

is a second cani disk carried hy the hollow shatt and provided at its outer side with a cani portion Q00 vhich coacts with a roller 2151 carried lj an oscillating hell-crank lever 203, which latter is mounted upon a shaft 201 journaled in suitable hear in efs 'formed in the overhaugingl arin. @ne end oit the lc\er.'Qt'3 vis provided With a tcrlntlV projection ivhich embraces a slide block Q00 (shown in dotted lines, Fig. 2l pivotcd upon a stud screw Q07 secured in a hracliet collar Q00, said slidehlock heine; mounted in r. slot 20S toriued in said bracket QQllar. which lattcrlis secured h v a pinch screiv Q to the upper end ot the clothprcsseicarrving har 271. The upper por tion ot the har Q71 is reduced in dialncter and i ouuted to uiove vertically in a dcpendiuje' .tt ll provided with hearings --t and Qao .which .'turcspond suhstantiall'j.' to the tivo diau'ieters ot' the ha'r ZTL the shaft Qlheiue secured h v a screw 'IETS in a hanger 2T? profcctingl` dovfnvvardlv trom the overhangiug arin. .interposed h shoulder iliorined ou the liar 271. and the shoulder formed in the shaft Q73 a spi-inn' which noruialljiv acts. to hold` the' cloth presser down upon the material. 'L from the foregoing it ivill he understood that the cani portion Q00, through. the con-` nections pointed out, litts the cloth-presser iu opposition to the resiliency ot the spring 280 once during' the formation oit three Ylock stitches.y or at. the completion ot each embroideryvv stitch. As the cani-disk 250 is tixed upon the tubular huh ot the canrdisk 254:, and thus rotates therewith, it besecn that the;v together constitute a 'a,in-ineinher from which are derived all `the three`-cycle movements et the various parts "een the;

insertar otthe mechanism for producingI the hem stitch seam.

300 is the piercer which is operated; by connections new to be described, trom the cam groove 301 'formed at the inner side of the cani disk The piercer is given one actuation for each complete actuation of the needle-carrying bar, the movements ot' said piercer occurring` during the time that the needles are out of the material; and to effect this' the cani groove 301 is provided with three cani portions 302, 303 and 304, thetwo toi-nier acting to control the movements of the-piercer ivhile the needle-carrying bar is being nioved to torni the stitches placed intermediate the feed actuations, and the lcam portion 304-. controlling the movements of said piercer during` the time that the stitches placed coincidentli7 with the feeding of the material are heine termed. At the time that the material advanced, the upward movements oit the piercer are increased to positivelj7 insure the point ot the piercer clearing the material asthe piercer is moved torvWard preparatoijT to the formation of 4the next subsequent series of loclr` stitches. The piercer and the needles remain in the material and assist the step or feedingy toot to :1dvance the material, as will later be described.

805 is a lever provided with a roller 300 Ywhich tracks in the icain groove 301.` the opposite end of Said lever heing provided with a huh 30T which is slotted. as at 30S. and inoupted upon a short shaft 309 journaled in' a suitahle hearing- 'forincd in the overhanging' arni.

310 is a lever mounted upon the huh 30'( and provided with a. slot 311 and a pinch Screw 312 ivhich latter. when tightened, acts to pgrip the lever 310 upon the huh 30T aud. in turner-ips the hubiSOT upon the shatt- 309. The opposite end ot the lever 5310 is' provided .vith a roller .513 which tracks within a groove 314e formed in the piercer cylinder ring 3l Upon tile oppositeend ot the shaft 309 is suitably secured a lever 3113 provided at its outer end ivith a roller Bti' nhi ili.`lil e the roller 313, tracks Within the vrooie 314. the lever 31,6 loeingy provided siinpljv to guard against the ringr R13 binding on the c vlinder Q2 when moved vert icall lv. vf

315% an d 310 are brackets secured by screws 2320 aud' 321. 321 respectively.y to the ring` said brackets heinoprovided with lugs i 2 and Sii?- ivhich enter openings SQ-t and 025,.I respectivelvl formed in the collar S20. The collar 320 is secured by screws 32? t'o the piercer har 32S, theupper end ot' said har lacing inounted in a hearing 329 formed in the bracket 26 aud near its lower end passes through a hearingD formed in an inte; al part ot the swinging traine Q1. To l the lo rer'cnd ot the piercer har 39S 1s sel cured, hy a screiv 3S 7a pinch collar-3232 havvwith a lug 366.

ing a downwardly eXtended portion 333 into which is secured, by a screw 334, the piercer 300, thus complet-ing the train of connections for operatively. connecting the piercer with the cam groove 301. It is to be under- -stood that -while Vthe use of a piercer isessen- .tial to the production of a seam requiring a comparatively large open-work stitch, its use is not essential in effecting two parallel rows of ordinary hemstitching.

350 isa step or feeding foot operated by connections now to be described from the cani groove 351 formed in the Outer face 'of the cam disk 254.

is a lever providediat its outer end with a roller 353, its opposite end being oonstructed with a ,hub 35st mounted,I upon a short rock-shaft 355 journaledin a. suitable bearing. in t-he overhanging arm, said hub beingl provided with a slot 356.

357 is a second lever mounted upon the hub and provided with aslot 358 and pinch screw 359, which latter, when tight-A ened, acts to secure said lever upon said hub and said hub upon the rock-shaft The outer end of the lever 357 is provided with a roller 360 which tracks within the groove` and. 372, 372,.respectively. The arms 364C and 365 are provided at theirupp'er ends Vwith angular portions 373 and 3711 which pass through openings 375 and 376, formed in said cylinder, and coact with notches 377 and 378 formed in the .upper inner edge of the feed ring 362. l downward into an 'opening in the feeder head 379, which latter forms a part of the swinging frame 21, said lugv coacting with the inner end of an adjusting screw 380 held against accidental movement by a nut-381.

l l? rom the foregoing it will be understood that when the feed ring is moved upward its action upon the angular portions 373 and 37;.1 of the two arm lever causes the lug 366 to swing the frame 21 andparts carried by it. The frame 21 is returned to its normal position by a spring 382 which at one end rests in a seat-383 formed in a bracket 384, the latter being secured to one end ofthe feeder head 379 by a screw 385, the opposite end of said spring resting in a pocket 386 formed in a short cylinder 387 secured by screws 388 to `the lower end of the cylinder ljog for impart-ingto, the piercer-bar an in# 22.*.` To complete the connections.between the cam groove 351 and step foot 350, the

latteris provided wit-li a rod 389 secured by a pinch screw 390- into a collar-like portion 391 of said step foot, said lrod extending up into thel hollow portion 392 of the piercer bar. 328 in opposition to the resiliency of the spring 393.

The step foot 350 is held in proper relationship with the ypiercer 300 by i the inner walls 394`and 395 of said-*foot slidably contacting with the vertical edge Walls 394 and 395 of the portion 333 of the pinch collar 332, which latter is secured to. the piercer bar 328 by screw 331. lever 396 coperates with the lever 357|to` move the feed ring 363, said lever being secured upon the' shaft 355 and providedat lits outer end with a roller 397v which enters the groove 361 in theringf362. The step foot 3 50, like the piercer v300, is moved away from the material once for each complete actuation of the needle-bar, and to effect this, the downwardly extended portion 333 of the pinch collar 332l is provided with a lug 398 which, as the piercer bar 398 is raised, contacts with the lower end of the short rod 389, it being-'understood that thev piercer bar is lifted a distance slightly greater than the distance between the upper side of the lug 398 and the under side 'of the collarllike portion 391 of the step foot 350.

As represented in Fig. 21, the'cam-groove 301 of the disk 259 is formed, `intermediate the final piercer-bar lifting portion-301 and the outer vposition occupied by the rollerstud 306 in said figure, with a depression which is entered by the rollerestud 306 at the 'completion of a tri stitch forming -1 cycle,

whereby the lever-arm 305 receives a final creased lift over that produced by the cam portions 302, 303 and 304. It is this .finali maximum lift which causes the operative engagement of tlie lug 398 on 'fthe piercerclamp collar 332 with the lug 391 vo'f the feeding or step-foot 350 by which. the latter is raised'froin the work to enable it to -take afresh hold thereon. Y I Thecylinder 22 is mounted in the forward end of the overhanging arm in suitable bearings consisting of the half bearings 399` and Z formed in the overhanging arm, and the half bearings' formed in the caps 101 and 402, which latter are secured by screws 403 to said arm,l the cylinder 22 being held against vertical movement by the gear 120 and short cylinder 387.

l125 isa cam groove formed on the rear side of the cam disk 254 and provided with cam portions A426, 427 and t28 which, through the connections now to be described, control the lateral movements of the needle.

429 is a rock lever provided at one end with a hub 130 and carrying at its opposite end a roller L131 which tracks within the cani groove 425, said lever being mounted upon the rock-shaft Q64, and said hub being` pro vided ivith a slot 432. 433 is a second lever having a hub 434 and a slot-'435, said hub being mounted 'upon the hub 430 and,

through the pinch screw 436, the hub 434 is secured upon the hub 430 and the latter upon the rock-shaft Q64. Thelever 433 carries at its outer end a' roller 437 which ent-ers the groove 438 formed in the needle .controlling rin'g 439 mounted upon the 'cylinder The i rock-sliaft 264 also carries a lever 440 Which, in turn, carries at its outer end a roller 441 which, likethe rollerv 437, tracks inthe groove 438, thi s, ,in connection ivith the lef ver 433,A acting to move said ring vertically 'on the cylinder 22. To the ring 439 is secured, by suitable sc revvs, as 468,468,4 a,

bracket 442' providedfwith a 'lug 443 which e'iiters't-lie opening 444 formed inthe needle .cam shaft 445.1. The shaft 445 -is mounted at its upper end in a bearing 446 carried by the swinging f ranie'l'7 its lower end entering abearing p 44T-*formed in the feeding head 3,79.

ingrock-levers ivhich are pivoted upon compleinental stud screws threaded into suitable lugs on' the feeder head 379, the upper ends of thel respective levers being provided ivitli rollers 451 and 452 an'd carrying at.

rtheir opposite ends the respective studs 453 and 454. Upon the stud 4.3 is mounted .a rocking guide-block 433, and upon the stud 454 is a like block 458, said blocks being provided ivith therespoctive openings 457 and 458 through which pass the respective sliderods 459 and 460. the loiver end of the rod being secured inthe needle clamp 38 and the rod 400 in the clamp 39, the respective studs and 454 being provided ivith suitable openings for the passage of the respective rods 459 and 460.

403 and 464 are inclines formed on the 1iee'dlei ggi1ig'cam-block on the reciprocating rodv or shaft 443, said int-lines terminat! i'ng in the respective straight surfaces 465 and 4(3(3 and coacting with their respectiverollers 451 and 452, throilgh the connections described, to rot-k said needles outivardlv m opposition to the resiliency of the si'iring 48T' which, through its action upon the o ipositely arranged blocks433 and 458, normally holds said needles adjusted to their innermost position. or the position for entering the opening in the material formed by the action of the piercer.

Referring to the cam portions 426, 427 and 428. the portion 49C through the connections 421.). 440, 434. 442 and 443, acts to nieve the needle camshaft 445 to its loivest position,

as ivhnn the needles are moved in `line to form the stitches c back from the opening in the material, and the cam portion 427 to the position of loop taking, the camportion 428 448and'449 represent the needle vibratcausing the inclines on the. cani shaft to be moved above the tield of action of the rollers 451 and 452-,thus permitting the spring 467 to hold the needles in their closest relationship.

machines -ivhereintlie embroidery or -openivork'stitch consists of a series of ordinary stitches, it -hasbeen demonstrated that the meansffor controlling thedirection of the feed of the material shouldfbe secured againstnianual manipulationexcept at the t-imeivhenthe material is being advanced intermechate the formation of the individual "open-'Work' stitches,' andthe samer is true of 1n ,the practical operation of embroidering the means for arresting the action. of the machine, the former means preventing the operator from changing the direction of the feed of the material when stitching acurvilinear o1' scroll design except at the completion of the overseani stitch, and the latter means preventing the operator from a.rrcst ing the action of the machine, as is necessary when it is desired to direc-t the line of stitch? ing at av right or oblique angle to the previouslv formed stitches7 except at the comple- Ation of the embroidery stitch.

To guard against the operatorinterfering ivith the direction of the feed of the material except atsuch time. as it-is being ad 'anced undcrthe needlefl provide the cam disk ivith acaui section 475, and the cam disk 2.3i) ivith a complementa-lcani section 47C, said cam sections coacting ivith rollers 477 and v478 carried by the respective brake levers 47!) and 480v` ivh'ich latter are pivotcd upon the 'respective screivs 481 and 482. threaded into .the bracket 483.

The bracket 483 is provided ivith a short shaft 484' ivhich enters a bearing 485 formed in. the arm standard 2,. thus permitting said bracket to take itsI` proper angle relatively to the shaft 10d which at its upper end is'jouinalcd in' said bracket. t

487 and 488 represent ivedgc-slu-iped brake Ashoes provided ivi'th coinpleiuental recesses 49) is a,spring. one end of v'vhich is secured to the lever'479, its opposite end being attached to the lever 480, thus acting to hold said levers in opposition to the action of the cam sections 475 and 476 upon the respective rollers 477 and 47 87 With the brake shoes forced-into the groove 498 of the pulley 497.

' From the foregoing it will be understood that when the cam sections 175 and-176 act upon 'the respective rollers 477 and L17S, whlch occurs durlng the feeding of the material, the respective levers) 79 and 480 are moved 1n opposite directions, thus releasmg the brake shoes from forced coni-act with i the pulley 497.

The foregoing subjectmatter descripti'e of the/means for securing the feed-directing vmechanism against manual manipulation eX- cept when the materia-'l "1s being advanced mterlnediate the forlna'tionbf'ithe individual open-work stitche., formsthe subject mat, 'terof divisional ,afl'iplicatiol'r Serial No'- v($072892, filed February 11, 1911, and the subject matter' now to be referred to descriptive of. the means for arresting the ac,

, tion of the'stitch-forming and cloth-feeding mechanisms, forms `the lubject matter ofy divisional 4application Se'r'ial No. 607,893, tiled- .Eebl'ilaryll, 1911. y

To guard against the operator interfering with the operation of the machine except at such' time as the material is being advanced under the needle, I provide the cam disk 250 with a .cam portion 500 which coacts with a roller 501 once for each rotation of .said cani disk, said roller being suitably ovautomatically released at substantially the ompletion of a predeterminedmumber 'of mounted upon the freevendof a connection 502 pivoted to-osc1llate on the screw 482. The opposlte end of the connection 502 is Ijointed to an L-sha-ped le'ver 503 pivoted at 501 mai-bracket 50G which, inturn, 1s. se-

cured b vserews 507, 507 to the arm standard. The'L-shaped lever 503 is pivoted to a plunger 508,1uounted in a suitable bearing formed in the arm standard, the free lend of said plunger normally extending out' slightly beyond the outer rear wall of the arm standard.

'-5 0 1s a sprlng ,one end of whlcn is atarm, t e opposite end being secured to the connectl n 50.2, thus, through the connections descibed,` holding the free end of the plunger 50. in its normal or ou'tu'ard position except vhen the roller 501 1s acted upon by the cam portion 500, when said -.plunger is drawn wit-hin its bearing.

The application of the stop-motion-controlling mechanlsm-herein pointed out 1s not limited to any-partrctiiar-form of-con` str `ction of stop-motion device so long as` suc controlling mechanism israrranged to coact with some element forming a part'of the stop-motion device which, when. manually actuated to effect the stopplng of the machine, .-is arrested in its movements -until ordinary stitches 'constituting lthe 'embroid- :f"ery`stitch, a s' in the production of the present. construction. Mordingly, .a kdescriptien of they/construction and operation-0f to the underside of the overhanging .the stop-motion device forming a part of -the present construction 1s herein given for the purpose of a' properunderstanding of the action of the controlling mechanism relatively to a stop-motion.y device.

525is the -vbrake disk,- su'itably 'secured to the lcrank shaft tand provided withopenings for the passage ofthescrews (three)v 526, saideepeningsbeing'enlarged for a part of'their length to provide pockets for the reception'of the springs (three) '.527 which are mounted upon the body portionsl of said screws and' confined between thel heads 0iv to normally grip said ring and cause the rotary movements of the bandwheehto he transmitted to the shaft L through the disk 525. To the arm 'standard there is secured, ,by screws 531, '531, a bearing plate 532 lwhich has formed integral with it a disk -said screws and the bottoms of thel spring portion 533 and a hub. 534. Moun'tedwithin and secured to the pla-te 532 Vis a'bushing 535 into which the shaft 4 is journaled, said bushing extending` slightly beyond the disk portion 533'at one. side and slightly beyond the en d of thehub 534 at the opposite'side.

53Gris a resistancedisk provided with a hub 591 which, in the present instance, is sweated upon'the shaft 4. 537 is a movable brake disk into which his secured guide pins (three) 538, which latter pass freely` through the disk 533'and extend slightly be.- yond the face of the plate 532 and outside the periphery of the hub 534. Upon the shaft 4, between the disksA 536 and 537, is loosely mounted a brake ring (leather) 530.

540 .is a toothed disk mounted upon the hub 534 and providedV with teeth 541 having inclines 542, the innerl face of said toothed-disk-resting againstre-ends of the pins538. The disk 540 has formed'integral lwith it anfarm. 543 provided with an opening Mit-into which projects a lug 5115 carried by a bracket v'546 which, in turn, isv

vmounted upon a screw-threaded rod- #547;-l

The .threadedj end of the rod 547 passes freely through a'swivel block V548 journaled fin a' suitable bearing formed in the'arm 'standard and'securedin adjusted posltlon by the screw 549.4 The threaded enduf @the ljodf 547 is provided-with an adjusting nutv .7550, andbetweenthe blocks 5&6 and is coniined a spring 556 which acts to hold the block 5&6 pressed against the head 551 ot' the rod 547.

552 is a second toothed disk mounted upon the hul) 53:1- ,and provided with teeth and inclines with an arin 555 Which is pivotally secured, liy a stud 557 and nut 558, in a slot 550 formed in an L-shaped lever 560, which latter is provided at one end with a brake shoe 561. The opposite end of the lever 560 is provided With a suitable roller which enters the earn slot 563 formed in the cani lever 564, the latter being provided With an arin 565 later to be referred to. 1n the tace of leather and located outside the heads of the screws 526, the outer face of said brake ring lying slightly Within the plane ot the Vface of the heads of said screws. In the toothed disk is loosely seateda metal ring 56T which is of sullicient diameter to include the heads of' the screws 526.

56S is a short rock-shaft, upon one end of which' is secured the cani lever 564C and upon the opposite end an arm 569, t-o the outer end ot'which latter is'pivotally attached a connection 570, said vconnection being pivotally attached to an arm 571 Which, in turn, is secured upon a rock-shaft 572 journaled in bearings forin'ed in the lugs 105 and 573, the latter extending downward from the sewing machine bed-plate.

57iY represents a second arm secured upon the shaft 572 and provided at its outerend with a roller 575,- Which roller enters an annular groove 576 formed in a sliding collar 577 inounted upon the shaft 100. The shaft 100 is provided at its lower endV with a tubular port-ion in which slides a rod 578, said rod being connected at one end, by a sere 550, with the collar 577. The screw 580 passes through the collar 577, then through an elongated slot 579 formed in the shaft 100 and is threaded into' the rod 57S. yThe lower endot said rod is connected to one end ot a rock lever 581 pivoted, by a screw 582, to a lug depending troni the Crank 106. The opposite end ot the rock lever 581 is provided with a stud which enters anannular groove 58-1 toi-ined in the metal.l bushing 5535 carrying the handle 107, said bushing heing capable ot hoth sliding and rotary increments on the rod 10S.

586 is a spring, one end ot which is secured in the hnl 5'S7 torn'ie'd on the arm standard, the opposite end resting against the underside-mc the cani lever 567i and normally acting lo raise said lever and cause the arin 565 lo contact with the plunger 50S. lt not otherwise controlled` the spring` 5F56 nould advance the parts to-speed arrrsting position` when the plunger 50S `would he automatically withdrawn tronicontaet with The disk 552 is providedv :reassess 'the arm 565 through the automatic action at the connections previously described.

'to prevent the spring 586 trein moving the lever 564 except at will,` the operator holds the handle 107, in opposition to the torce of saidspring, in its lowest position,"

as shown in Fig. 15; but when it is desire to stop the machine, the operator nieves the handle 107 verticallyv on the rod 108, thereby permitting and assisting the spring 5SH to more the arm 565 in contact With the plunger 508, and as soon as said plunger is Withdrawn the parts are advanced to speed ar? resting position.

lVhen the operator permits the spring 586 to inove the handle 107 to the limit of its upward stroke, the brake shoe 561 contacts with the cain portion 588 formed on'- the brake disk and the roller 562 is positioned at the loa'erend ot the slot 563. rllhe action of the brake shoe 561 upon the caln portion 58S causes the toothed disk to be slightly rotated, such rotation causing the inclines to ride the inclines 5-t2. The action of the inclines 551 on the inclines 51:2 forces the ring 567 in Contact with the heads ot` the screws and causes the disk 525 to he inoved out ot gripping engagement with the ring 5230, thus releasing the loose pulley 52S) from engagement with the brake disk 525 and "forcing the side ot the toothed disk into t'rictional Contact with the leather brake ring' 566.

At the time that the ring 567 is acting upon the heads ot the screws 526, the side ot' the toothed disk 540 is acting against the ends ot the guide pins 538, thus forcing the movable disk 537 in the 4direction of the length of the shaft 4 and against the brake ring 539, and the latter against the resistance disk 536, thus effecting trictional engageinent between the resistance disk 5236 andthe disk 537, which latter is heldagainst rotary nim'einents by the pins 53S passing through-the disk portion The action oit the'toothed disk 552 upon the ring' 566, and the action of the toothed disk 5&0 on the resistance disk 536 causes the speed of the machine to he gradually slackened; and the coaction ot the brake 561 and am portion 58S brings the machine to rest-and controls the position in which the parts comprising the actuating inechanisln of the sewing inachine will lie lironghtto rest. The starb ing of the machine is accouiplishml hy ino\' ing' the handle. 107 to its lowest position.

Froin the foregoing it will he understood that the stopping and starting ot the niachine. is manually controlled, and that such coul-rol automaticalixv timed so as to in'- sure the complete `to'rinalion ot the indr ridnal ,einlnoidery stitches .lietore the ina chine is hrought to rest, or when it is desired to change the line ot the 'feed in a, di rection at right angles oroliliquely to the 

